Abkhazia September 2009

I travelled to Gagra my first evening in Abkhazia. The road follows the coast for about 15 miles and Gagra is between the mountains and the sea, with some residences on the lower slopes.

My second day in Abkhazia, I met the President, Sergei Bagapsh in the capital, Sukhom. We spoke about Abkhazia's development and future. The hope is that there will be international flights to Abkhazia from Russia next year. They are hampered by the lack of international recognition. Without this the airport codes can not be given. But there is a sense that by next year there will at least be flights from Moscow. I could see the President was very busy and that there are a lot of changes happening in the country.

Sukhom is a pleasant city and although it suffered more damage during the war, there are a lot of signs of its emergence. The area around the waterfront looks very promising.

I noticed that things have changed quite a bit since my last visit in 2008. There are more Soviet era buildings being reconstructed, there is now a bank in Gagra and a new supermarket. Also, many homes near the beach have added guest rooms and a cafeteria for guests in their yards. The accommodations are modest and construction methods and quality are not very high. But there is much of this going on. The reason: tourism is up about 100% from 2008. Russian tourists feel safe now that the Russian government has pledged $500 million towards infrastructure and security for Abkhazia. They are constructing a base in Abkhazia and it is possible to see Russian naval vessels and the coast guard in Abkhazian waters.

I spent a day touring the mountains east of Gagra and saw Lake Ritsa. Abkhazia has very dramatic scenery, with the mountains rising to over 16,000 feet within a few miles of the coast. Ritsa was the site of one of Stalin's dachas (country home).

I also looked at the resort at Pitsunda again. Pitsunda is a few miles south of Gagra. During Soviet times, foreign leaders and dignitaries would often stay there. Now there are several hotels, including one modern mid-range hotel. The resort itself consists of 7 residential buildings, resembling hotel structures. However, the construction is typical of mid-60's Soviet design. Most of the rooms are in use, but there is a lack of amenities and the rooms are of aged Soviet vintage. The location is fantastic, though. The resort is about 70 acres and includes nearly a kilometer of beach. The views to the north and east are of the mountains. I stood on the beach on an 85 degree day and saw snow-capped mountains about 3 miles away. It is a magical setting. Abkhazia and especially Pitsunda have a very, very strong reputation for tourists from the countries of the former Soviet Union.

I stayed in Abkhazia the 3rd week of September. Sadly, I got food poisoning and was laid up a whole day when there was perfect weather. There was some rain, but most of the time it was between about 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. There were several cloudless days and several with mixed sunshine and rain.