Karina Yunusova and Lux Leopard

I saw the Russian rock band Lux Leopard at Sochi's Bar London on January 7.  Music producer Pavel Lesnevsky was in the audience and told me that his team was filming a band that night and I should watch.  I was already on my way out before the band started playing that night.  But, I was caught by surprise by the English language lyrics when they started performing (see the video filmed that night of Try To Be King).  I stopped to watch because of the singer's energetic and arresting performance and because the musicianship of the band stood in contrast to the Russian cover bands that constitute much of the live music in this region. There was a real guitar player here, a real singer and bass player and the best "Keith Moon-style drummer" in south Russia.

I could not quite pin down what it was about the vocalist that caught my attention, there was something of Shirley Manson's formidable stage presence.  But her charisma is all her own and she has considerable vocal range, too.

Last night, I happened to be in the studio working with the editor on a video featuring me and about central Sochi, when Lux Leopard singer Karina Yunusova and guitarist Yevgeniy Kuznetsov arrived to add tracks to a previously recorded song. The impromptu meeting gave me a chance to ask about their history, music and plans for the future.  

Lux Leopard formed about four years ago, after Karina moved from Novy Urengoy, east of the Urals, to Sochi in search of a warmer climate.  She had been a competitive gymnast and competed in the Russian Championship for a spot on Russia's Olympic team   Later she studied English and Spanish at the university level in Moscow. After considering her options, Karina decided rather than returning to Moscow to work as a tour guide, she would try out Russia's Black Sea Boomtown. Sochi.

Soon after Karina arrived, she was introduced by mutual friends to Yevgeniy, bass player Aslan Gedkafov and drummer David Oganyan, who had been playing together, but needed a singer.  Yevgeniy told me it was a quick decision by all to join forces after they heard Karina sing and she heard them play.  Lux Leopard performs English language songs of their own composition.  Yevgeniy writes the music and Karina the lyrics. She told me that she likes writing in English because she feels it is the best language for their brand of driving and seminal rock 'n roll. I asked her if there had been any performers in the English-speaking world who she had been motivated by.  She told me that when she was a teenager, she heard Garbage singer Shirley Manson and that it had an immediate impact upon her.  Yevgeniy said that Black Keys guitarist Dan Auerbach has been a notable influence on his playing.  He also listed trip hop bands Portishead and Morcheeba as groups that informed his ideas of music.

Lux Leopard is gaining a significant regional following.  I asked them why they had not relocated to Moscow, which is the center for music in Russia.  They told me that the crowded and competitive bar scene made it difficult to get gigs that paid for the additional costs.  Anyway, Lux Leopard is developing an international following and since Sochi now has an international airport, they can reach the large European market just as quickly from here.  Since the group now has a sufficient catalog of original songs, they are ready to start playing to international audiences.

As for future plans, Lux Leopard has set their sites on a recording contract and international success.  At least for now, they are a welcome part of Sochi's growing music scene.

Google's Sochi Problem

Google has a problem in Sochi.  Actually, Google has several problems.  Sochisider Pavel Lesnevsky pointed this out to me.  He asked if I would write about it and try to get some attention brought on the problem, so that Google would make the changes necessary to fix it.

A use of Google's search engine at google.ru using the following words: ночная жизнь сочи - which means Sochi nightlife in Cyrillic (Russian characters)- will see these search results:

Notice that the first page is dominated by domains devoted to websites about Miami, Florida.  The same thing happens when a user searches культурная жизнь Сочи- cultural life Sochi.  The search results point the user towards sites about Miami.

Also, a user who uses Google's online translator and types in сочи , which is the spelling for Sochi, will get the result: Miami.

Everyone in Russia understands that Miami is a popular and fun place.  Many Russians have visited or would like to visit.  However, this mistake is not good for anyone.  Users do not find the information they need, it damages local businesses in Sochi and hurts Google's image.

Can we get some help here?  This is surprising that no one has taken care of this problem.  I think Sergei Brin is from Moscow....

January 19, Epiphany in Sochi

Last night in Sochi, the beaches were full of bathers at midnight, despite the cold and damp evening.  The occasion was the celebration of Epiphany, which is celebrated in the Orthodox Christian Church as the day that Jesus was baptized in the Jordan River and one of only two times when all three Persons of the Holy Trinity manifested themselves to humanity.  In colder areas of Russia, those observing will cut a hole in the ice (often in the shape of a cross) and immerse themselves in the water, sometimes 3 times.  In Sochi, thousands of people come to the beaches and plunged into the Black Sea at midnight.  Last night, I was there for a brief and chilly swim.  The water temperature was about +8 to 10 Celsius ( 46- 50 Fahrenheit).  

Ruzanna Malkhasyan and Hotel Alex Raising Standards in Abkhazia

The road from Russia into Abkhazia makes a turn a few kilometers after the border and follows the mountains in a southeast direction towards Gagra.  The. views from the road are spectacular.  On the left are the steep mountainsides of the Caucasus and to the right the traveler can see many kilometers to sea and down the coastline to Gagra.  After about 20 minutes, the road descends into "Old Gagra" where the town fills the narrow gap between the mountains and the sea. Gagra has many rustic guest homes, several modest hotels and a few outdated Soviet-era resorts. Last year, the Hotel Alex opened; It is the best property in northwest Abkhazia and perhaps the entire country.  It also sets the standards for service and amenities for all of Abkhazia.  No other hotel can boast a seaside pool, a spa, up-to-date designer rooms, a restaurant and bowling alley, not to mention western-level service.

 In December, I spent time with Ruzanna Malkhasyan, who is a manager at the Hotel.  I was impressed that day because the staff called her as soon as I entered the hotel and within minutes she arrived, despite the fact it was an off day for her. When I asked Ruzanna about this, she laughed and told me that while working to build the hotel's reputation and its expanding list of services, there is little free time, so whenever the chance to promote the hotel appears she wants to capitalize.

Ruzanna told me about the development of the hotel, which is owned by Russian investor Alexander Lebedev. She said that the hotel opened in April of 2010 and that the building process took less than a year.  This is quite rapid by local standards, but the quality has apparently not suffered.  The structure sits just off the beach and has 80 rooms, a spa and a bar/ restaurant in 5 stories.  Most rooms have unobstructed views of both the spectacular mountains and glassy seas.  The modern design, colors and brightly lit reception area, with its service-oriented and English speaking staff, are a contrast to other properties in the area, but a sure sign of much more hotel development on the way to Abkhazia.  The hotel also has a beautiful pool area, a bowling alley and, on its extensive beach front, another restaurant and snack bar are being opened.  Weddings, parties and conferences are held here because of the level of service and the attractive, comfortable rooms.  The spa is often busy, with a sauna and beauty and skin treatments that are not available in other hotels in Abkhazia.

I have visited the Alex a number of times and it is always busy. During the summer peak season, occupancy runs very close to 100% and even during the winter months, the hotel is usually about 50% occupied. Abkhazia and the Hotel Alex offer a beautiful and less expensive alternative to Russians for corporate outings, especially when most of Russia is blanketed in cold and snow.  For example, on a visit last fall, I saw a conference of executives from Renault auto dealerships in Russia.

Ruzanna was recruited to work for the Alex because of her unique background.  She was born in Gagra, but her family left because of the conflict caused by Georgia's invasion in 1992.  They moved to Saint Petersburg,where Ruzanna eventually studied at the Saint Petersburg Technical College of Management  and Commerce and received a degree in international economics and tourism, specializing in hotel management.  Ruzanna worked during her University days and after graduating, took a position with Limak Group in Turkey, where she started out as a waitress at the Cornelia Resort Golf and Spa, but quickly rose to Assistant Guest Relations Manager. When her present employers heard of her desire to return to Abkhazia for family reasons, they quickly found a role for her in the Alex.  Ruzanna is Reception Manager at the Alex and she also works in the sales department and is very involved in the planning process with Hotel Manager Vyacheslav Chernyshev as the property has developed its bowling alley, bars and restaurants.  Her multi-disciplinary education and work experience have come in handy with all of the hats she wears at the Alex.

Ruzanna and I walked to the new Hemingway Bar during my visit in December and she showed me the Hotel's plans for expanding to fill the service gap in Abkhazia.  I have been telling investors for several years that Abkhazia is ripe for hotel development because of its unique climate, spectacular coastline and proximity both to an Olympic city (Sochi) and to the large Russian market.  The Hotel Alex is proof positive that the model of providing high quality rooms and service will attract guests to Abkhazia. The Hotel is already establishing a reputation as a "cool" weekend getaway for Sochisiders and a destination for those from colder climes who wish to fly to Sochi, take a quick trip across the border and relax in subtropical comfort.

Ruzanna is emblematic of a new generation of energetic Abkhaz professionals who have acquired an education and linguistic skills.  They see those tools as a springboard for personal opportunity and to help their country rise from impoverishment to the Black Sea's most unique and beautiful destination.

Ruzanna Malkhasyan (right) and Hotel Alex employee

The Hotel Alex sits at 1 Zvanba Ulitsa in Gagra.  Winter rates start at 2,200 rubles for a standard room, 4,800 rubles for a suite, with a deluxe suite priced at 5,800.  Summer rates are higher.  Readers may contact me for further information.

Sochi New Year

I flew to Sochi on New Year's Eve, arriving at about 11 a.m.  The skies around Sochi were clear and the approach to the airport offered great views of the snow-covered Caucasus Mountains.  Later, on the ground, there was less traffic than usual.  Businesses were closed and people seemed to be preparing for New Year's revelries.  

Caucasus Mountains from Sochi Airport

That evening, restaurants and clubs were booked with celebrants.  Administration Square in the city center had a concert and fireworks display.  There were dozens of fireworks displays all over the city. This site has some great photos.

Fireworks Display- New Year's Eve

Orothodox Christmas is celebrated on January 7, so the holiday season in Russia and in Sochi will include this week.  Sochi's streets are quiet and most businesses are closed.

Happy New Year!