Georgia's pledge

This week, Georgia's President Mikhail Saakahsvili pledged that would Georgia would not use violence in its efforts to gain control of the Republic of Abkhazia and South Ossetia.  The move met jaundiced eyes in Abkhazia.  I spoke to several well-connected Abkhaz.  They say that President Saakshavili has no credibility here.  People remember well that Saakashvili made a similar pledge shortly before ordering the attack on South Ossetia in 2008.

One source grudgingly admired Georgia's ability to manipulate the foreign press and politicians.  He said that "they do this better than we do because they have more resources."  However, he was also clear that he felt that the misdirection and misinformation that the government of Georgia employs is wrong and will not prove successful.

Georgia argues that Abkhazia is a case of Russian irredentism.  However, the reality is that Russia is not occupying the country.  It is, after a decade and a half of peacekeeping, protecting Abkhazia's security.  If Georgia does renounce force, it is a victory for peace and stability in the region and substantially due to Russia's presence.  If an analogous situation had developed close by, the United States would almost certainly have followed the same course Russia has done.  So, the situation can better be described as one of Georgian revanchism.  

In any case, Abkhazia is a free society with free elections, a free press and an active opposition.  The frequent mention of Russian economic support is often misstated.  Almost all of the money is being spent on the protection of Abkhazia from Georgia.  Russia's primary economic support comes from the large numbers of tourists who come to enjoy Abkhazia's mountain beauty, beaches and subtropical climate.

November 23, 2010

It is warm and sunny in Abkhazia.  Today's daytime high was about 75 degrees Fahrenheit.  With a recent storm, the mountains near Sochi and in Abkhazia were covered with fresh snow.  In the aftermath of the storm the air was clear and warm, so it was a beautiful drive down from Russia to Gagra.  On thw way down from Russia, I thought about the situation on both sides of the border.  Sochi , Adler and Krasnaya Polyana  are booming, while more beautiful Abkhazia lags behind because of the lack of international recognition.  However, there are unmistakeable signs that things are changing.  It is apparent to me that Abkhazia will develop with or without widespread recognition.  The only question is who the participants will be.  

Today I was interviewed by an American journalist who is doing a story on me and on privatization and business development in Abkhazia.  I continue to get interview requests.   I have already been approached by a group that develops large infrastructure projects internationally.  They see the potential in the port, airline development and electrical generation amongst other projects.  This is in addition to the hotel and resort development that needs to be built to meet existing demand.   Soon others will see that change is in the air and that Abkhazia is ripe for development. 

This evening in a cafe I saw another sign of this.  While I was working on my computer, I noticed that the television in the cafe was carrying a Turkish program.  Turkey is close, has a large Abkhaz diaspora and trades with Abkhazia.  But the television show is just one example of how Abkhazia is emerging from isolation and integrating culturally and economically.  The development of these ties happens despite the actions of outside governments.  The tide is running against those who attempt to impede Abkhazia's progress.

Rip Curl Heliboard Trip to Abkhazia

Please watch these videos of heliboarding in Abkhazia.  Rip Curl sponsored some top snowboarders to travel to Abkhazia.  The footage is amazing!  There are few places in the world with such spectacular conditions and all within a short distance of Abkhazia's subtropical coastline.   The 2014 Winter Olympics will be held just across the border in Sochi, Russia.  With the eyes of the world on Sochi, Abkhazia is bound to become the focus of more attention.  I expect that even more people will be contacting me about the possibilities of adventure travel to the "Pearl of the Black Sea!"

Readers interest in Abkhazia's history and my presence there should read some of the posts below and the most popular posts are listed at lower right on this page.  I also have links in the upper right to photos of Abkhazia on flickr

Old photographs of Abkhazia

Recently, Metin Sonmez, editor at Abkhaz World, sent me some photos of Abkhazia.  Most are late 19th or early 20th century and are of Sukhum and of Abkhaz people.  I know most of the locations photographed in Sukhum and it really leaves a feeling of the continuity of life and family in Abkhaz.  I am sure many generations gathered in the same same places as their descendants do now.  Some of the individuals photographed were reputed to be of great age.  I recall an article in the National Geographic in the 1970's about people of the Caucasus living to 150 or even beyond.   I think later it was decided there was some Soviet hyperbole in the claims.  Still the photographs are fascinating.

There is also a second modern album of Abkhaz women in traditional garments.   Thanks to Metin for sharing both!

Abkhazia Hotels and Restaurants

 Abkhazia and in particular Sukhum has an exotic, almost Near East feel.  I have made many trips there and stayed in quite a few places and eaten in many restaurants and cafes.  While service lags behind what most western travelers would expect, there are some bright spots.

Hotel Ritsa in Sukhum has a great location at the very center of the city.  It is the best place in Sukhum to stay. The rooms are modern and some have great views of the Black Sea and the port. Locals point out that Trotsky made a speech from one of the balconies after hearing of Lenin's death in 1924. There is no elevator, so guests have to shoulder their bags up and down several long flights of stairs. Furnishings in the rooms are modern and there is paid wireless access. The carpets are not in great shape, but overall it is a very pleasant place.  On the ground floor there is a cafe where breakfast is offered and also a nominally Italian restaurant, San Remo. The hotel staff at reception are exceptional by Abkhaz standards. They are pleasant, very helpful and some speak English.  Ask for a room with a balcony, especially one facing the sea. The price is about 3,800 rubles per night.  2 Prospekt Leona, Tel. 7 940 223 3242

Right around the corner from the entrance to the Ritsa, is one of my favorite restaurants in Abkhazia, Aqvafurta.  It actually sits in the same building as the hotel.  The decor consists of reproductions of Abkhaz weaponry and the service is mixed at best, but the food is very good.  The menu is mostly Abkhaz and which tends to be spicier then Russian fare.  Kharch, which is a beef dish in a spicy walnut sauce, is very good. Abkhazian beef is worth a try, too. I like the beans. They are not hot, which would be welcome, but they are "sharper"(as hot food is called in Russian) than in Russia, almost like Mexican refried beans with chili. Another specialty is mamaliga, which is a steamed grain-based dish, something like polenta. Order it with smoked cheese. The restaurant is inexpensive, dinner for two should cost about 500- 800 rubles.

 Just across from the Ritsa sit a number of trees and several columns .  In the afternoons and early evening, you will see groups of men playing dominoes on tables under the trees near the beachwalk.  Maxodzhirov Street runs parallel to the beach and just in front of the Hotel Ritsa. It also abuts the central beachwalk and is the place in Sukhum to go for a stroll in the evening.  You will see small groups of people, tourists and families walking there.

 When facing the beach in front of Ritsa make a right and walk about 1 1/2 blocks to the Cafe Naarta.  Naarta is large, with several outdoor and indoor seating areas.  The menu is not extensive, but prices are very reasonable; two people can easily have dinner for 600 rubles.  Khachapuri, a cheese pie, is the specialty.  It is baked fresh and served hot.  Shashlik is another good choice.

At the end of the dock where the port sits is the Apra Cafe.  This is the best place in Sukhum to have coffee or desert and enjoy the twilight or evening lights of the city.  The views are great and the cafe takes advantage of the fact it is surrounded by the water.  It is more expensive than most places in Sukhum, but the staff is also better.  When sitting there, I squint and magine that this will eventually be an uber cool Black Sea version of La Jolla or Laguna Beach....

When I am in Gagra, I have stayed at the Mega Hotel, it is near the beach and almost directly across the road from the disco, Malibu.  Mega has a good location, but don't expect much in terms of service or amenities.  The rooms are very basic.  Malibu is a large outdoor disco and draws a crowd during the summer months.  The music is the usual mix of Russian pop and the worst, most tired, American dance music.  But it is popular with Russian tourists and a nice place on a warm evening.

Nearby at 13 Shapugskaya Street, is the guest house, Leon (tel. 7 940 990 3666).  Prices are moderate during the summer, about 1,600 rubles, for a room with air-conditioning.  The owner, Monica Sichinava, runs a clean and efficient operation.  I recommend her place over all the other guest houses.  It is only about 2 blocks from the beach. There are several new mini hotels on the north end of Gagra that run about 5,000 rubles per night.

One block away from Monica's place is the highway.  After a right hand turn on the highway and about 10 minutes walk the Kontinent store sits near a market.  Kontinent is a large and modern food store.  It is right next to Gagra Bank, but bear in mind that it will only be possible to change money in Abkhaz banks.  There are no ATM machines due to Georgian pressure on the companies that process debit and credit card transactions.

About a block away from Kontinent and on the opposite side of the road is Melnitsa Cafe.  Melnitsa is expensive; it is easy to spend 1,500- 2,000 rubles or even more there.  But the outdoor seating area is pleasant and the service is better than average.  They have an extensive menu of Russian and Abkhaz food with a number of desert selections.  For an inexpensive lunch, try the Kharcho, a soup of beef and vegetables. Melnitsa has wireless access with the purchase of a card.  If you sit too close to the music source, you will not be able to converse.

On the northwest side of Gagra (towards the Russian border), is the Cafe Ritsa.  The food here is standard Abkhaz and Russian, but it is a great place to sit and enjoy the sea views.  Since Abkhazia's coastlilne runs roughly northwest to southeast, you can sit at the cafe and watch the sun set off of Abkhazia's most northwesterly peninsula.  If you stay too late beware of the music.  You will probably hear songs played at the kind of decibel levels that deafened Pete Townshend- but none of them written by the Who.

Taxi prices in Abkhazia are mostly negotiated.  Make sure you agree on a price before, because some will ask for a fare 2 or 3 times too high.  I expect a minimum fare of 100 rubles in Gagra or Sukhum.  Usually to or from the border and Gagra, I pay about 400 -500 rubles.  From the border to Sukhum runs 1,200- 1,500.  I suspect that I am paying more than someone without an American accent, but this should be within the ballpark.