Belarus

Here in Sukhom, officials from Belarus are meeting today with their counterparts from the Republic of Abkhazia and discussing issues related to the recognition of Abkhazia. The outcome is not certain at this moment, but Abkhazia is clearly hopeful.

Although there are credibility issues related to Belarus, it would be an important step for Abkhazia. Belarus has a military alliance with Russia. I am unsure as to whether that alliance would then be extended to Abkhazia. Of course, recognition by Belarus would move Abkhazia a step closer to CIS recognition (The CIS is composed of the post Soviet nations minus Georgia, Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia).

Belarus has been pressured by Georgia in the other direction, but it is hard to see how the Georgians have much leverage. On the other hand, Belarus may not want to make any moves that the European Union does not approve of.

Secretary Clinton

I have many areas of agreement with Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. Abkhazia is not one of them. Recently, she stated that the U.S. would never recognize Abkhazia. Never is a pretty long time.

Part of the rationale seems to be that Abkhazia will be pulled into Russia's orbit. After spending quite a bit of time in Abkhazia, I don't see Russia making decisions for Abkhazia. They have their own elections and do not bow to any master, Russian or otherwise.

On the other hand, Abkhazia has accepted Russian military aid and money for infrastructure because of the threat from Georgia. Georgia protests wildly at any opportunity about Abkhazia. United Colors of Benetton pulled out because Georgia threatened to close all their stores in Georgia because they opened one in Abkhazia. The Republic of Abkhazia does not have working ATM machines, although there are banks, because Georgia protested to the companies that process the electronic services. Abkhazia does not have a movie theatre, despite a population of around 200,000. Predictably the reason is that Abkhazia does not have official recognition, so it is not possible to get licensed to show films here. Although the airport in Sukhum has one of the best runways of anyplace in the former Soviet Union, there are no commercial flights to Abkhazia because it is not widely recognized. This is because Georgia has undue and unfair influence on the United States. Georgia receives a large share of its budget from the U.S., without this, it may resemble a failed state very quickly. In return, Georgia lavishes money in Washington to lobby our elected officials.

There is no Abkhazian lobby or presence to counter the propaganda that Georgia is a victim of Russian aggression. No one writes about this in the press. There is no mention of the poverty in Abkhazia, despite the fact that the country is spectacularly beautiful and has tremendous potential as a tourist destination.

Because of the situation, Abkhazia must rely on Russian military support to defend itself from Georgian aggression (partly funded with American tax dollars). Abkhazia must also use a Russian telephone code so its citizens can communicate. Hopefully, flights will start to Sukhum from Russia next year. But that will only be from Russia because of the lack of international recognition. So far the only money for redevelopment of the country has come from Russia. So while Abkhazia makes its own decisions, Russia is the only nation that provides protection, a border crossing and economic aid. It seems that the U.S. policy only pushes Abkhazia closer to Russia.

I am sure that the Russian Federation does not seek to dominate Abkhazia. The proof is their recognition of Abkhazia as an independent nation. Russia has also been active in lobbying other nations for Abkhazia's and South Ossetia;s recognition. Russia would much prefer that Abkhazia be recognized for what it is: free and independent.

With widespread recognition, Abkhazia would more quickly and efficiently develop. This would be in almost everyone's interest, including the United States. Georgia will certainly disagree, but they have no presence in the country and likely never will.

Most Abkhazians view America in a positive light despite the support for Georgia. They think this is due to political intrigue and money rather then the blame of the American people.

Border crossing into Abkhazia, November 16

I came across the border late in the afternoon after arriving by flight from Krasnodar. Usually, I take the train to Sochi and then spend some time there before traveling south to the border at Adler. However, I flew and since the airport is actually in Adler, it is a short trip from there to the border.

I had an interesting experience crossing the border. The Russian border agents pulled me aside and very cordially asked me my business. They wanted to know if I was CIA. It seems funny until you consider their position. Very few Westerners cross into Abkhazia and almost no Americans. Since the U.S. has been a strong supporter of Georgia's position, it is natural to question an American entering a place that his country does not officially recognize. I carefully explained to them my business and property ownership in the Krasnodar Region of Russia and of my interest in Abkhazia and its future. They were satisfied and I went on my way.

Return to Russia and the Obama missile shield announcement

Several days before I left, I heard the announcement that the Obama Administration is abandoning the plans that were developed previously for a missile shield over Poland and the Czech Republic. This shield was very threatening to the Russians because they felt it was directed towards them and their offensive capability. If their offensive capacity is reduced, then they feel much more vulnerable to attack. In recent years as relations with the U.S. have deteriorated, this has been an especially sticky issue.


I stayed in a small hotel near the beach in central Gagra. While I was there, the Sochi Economic Forum was being held just a few miles north in Sochi, Russia. This is a very important event and draws business and governmental leaders from Russia and abroad. Both Prime Minister Putin and President Medvedev attended. While I passed the outdoor cafe at my hotel, I could see Putin being asked about the announcement and his response. For a guy who does not exactly wear his heart on his sleeve, his pleasure was obvious. I don't think the U.S. should base its foreign policy decisions on pleasing Mr. Putin alone. However, the idea was a bad one to begin with. Now it appears that the Russian government will be more helpful in dealing with the Iranian nuclear issue. And the big question in the first place was not protecting Warsaw from Tehran, but preventing Iran from developing nuclear weapons to attack anyone. I always felt the Bush Administration's policy was completely wrong-headed on the issue. Much better to work with Russia to resolve issues like this than to antagonize them on issues that are very sensitive to their national security. After all, Russia has been invaded several times and they have long memories about this. Virtually every city, town and village has a memorial to the victims and heroes of the Great Patriotic War ( World War Two).

When I crossed the border about 2 days later, it was raining and I could not find the migration card to fill out to present with my passport at the kiosk next to passport control. I somehow worked my way to the front of the scrum of people hauling fruit across and made my needs known. The agent at the border gave me the paperwork and told me to come back to the front when it was complete. I quickly filled it out and returned. The officer quickly looked at my documents, stamped them and with a smile returned them. This was the easiest and friendliest crossing into Russia I have ever experienced. It is a small sample and not necessarily representative, but it sure caught my attention. As opposed to ordinary Russians, I feel the chills and thaws between the U.S. and Russian governments very quickly when I am dealing with border guards and agents. I suppose this is understandable. But if this is any indication of improvement in American-Russian relations, I am glad.

Abkhazia September 2009

I travelled to Gagra my first evening in Abkhazia. The road follows the coast for about 15 miles and Gagra is between the mountains and the sea, with some residences on the lower slopes.

My second day in Abkhazia, I met the President, Sergei Bagapsh in the capital, Sukhom. We spoke about Abkhazia's development and future. The hope is that there will be international flights to Abkhazia from Russia next year. They are hampered by the lack of international recognition. Without this the airport codes can not be given. But there is a sense that by next year there will at least be flights from Moscow. I could see the President was very busy and that there are a lot of changes happening in the country.

Sukhom is a pleasant city and although it suffered more damage during the war, there are a lot of signs of its emergence. The area around the waterfront looks very promising.

I noticed that things have changed quite a bit since my last visit in 2008. There are more Soviet era buildings being reconstructed, there is now a bank in Gagra and a new supermarket. Also, many homes near the beach have added guest rooms and a cafeteria for guests in their yards. The accommodations are modest and construction methods and quality are not very high. But there is much of this going on. The reason: tourism is up about 100% from 2008. Russian tourists feel safe now that the Russian government has pledged $500 million towards infrastructure and security for Abkhazia. They are constructing a base in Abkhazia and it is possible to see Russian naval vessels and the coast guard in Abkhazian waters.

I spent a day touring the mountains east of Gagra and saw Lake Ritsa. Abkhazia has very dramatic scenery, with the mountains rising to over 16,000 feet within a few miles of the coast. Ritsa was the site of one of Stalin's dachas (country home).

I also looked at the resort at Pitsunda again. Pitsunda is a few miles south of Gagra. During Soviet times, foreign leaders and dignitaries would often stay there. Now there are several hotels, including one modern mid-range hotel. The resort itself consists of 7 residential buildings, resembling hotel structures. However, the construction is typical of mid-60's Soviet design. Most of the rooms are in use, but there is a lack of amenities and the rooms are of aged Soviet vintage. The location is fantastic, though. The resort is about 70 acres and includes nearly a kilometer of beach. The views to the north and east are of the mountains. I stood on the beach on an 85 degree day and saw snow-capped mountains about 3 miles away. It is a magical setting. Abkhazia and especially Pitsunda have a very, very strong reputation for tourists from the countries of the former Soviet Union.

I stayed in Abkhazia the 3rd week of September. Sadly, I got food poisoning and was laid up a whole day when there was perfect weather. There was some rain, but most of the time it was between about 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. There were several cloudless days and several with mixed sunshine and rain.